Pumpkin: Sowing, planting and harvest calendar

Sow pumpkins in spring in pots with drainage holes filled with seed compost. Sow one seed per pot about 1–2 cm deep. Keep the compost slightly moist without soaking it, and the pots warm, at around 20 °C. If you use a clear cover to retain moisture, remove it as soon as seedlings emerge.

After germination, give the seedlings good light. Gradually acclimatise them to outdoor conditions and wait until the soil is warm and all risk of frost has passed before planting them out.

Plant in a sunny spot with fertile, well-drained soil, keeping the root ball intact. Adjust spacing to the growth habit stated for the variety: trailing types need more room. Watch for pests and identify problems before taking action, without routine preventive treatments.

Place the flat seed on its edge and start with a pot about 7.5 to 9 cm across. Individual sowing avoids separating roots when transplanting. Allow enough space and light for several weeks of growth before planting out. If roots fill the pot while the weather is still unsuitable for outdoor planting, move the entire root ball into a slightly larger container without pulling on the young stem.

Sow pumpkins directly in their final position once the soil is warm and all risk of frost has passed. Choose a sunny spot with fertile, well-drained soil. Remove weeds and add mature compost if needed.

Sow at individual sites about 2–3 cm deep, following the seed packet instructions. Allow enough room for trailing stems instead of using a fixed one-metre spacing. If several seedlings emerge at one site, keep the strongest.

Keep the soil moist during germination without overwatering. Watch for slugs and snails around young plants. Sowing under cover remains an option in cool climates; harvest depends on the variety and available warmth, with no guaranteed autumn crop.

Covering the sowing sites with cloches for the preceding two weeks can help warm the soil. Ventilate these covers in sunshine to prevent overheating. For many trailing types, 1.5 m between sowing sites is an indicative minimum; some need more room. Even compact types occupy substantial space. Position the sites where the stems can spread without immediately covering neighbouring crops or blocking paths. Consider the plant's eventual spread as well as the size of its fruit.

Plant young pumpkins in a sunny spot with fertile, well-drained soil. Remove weeds and add mature compost if needed. Wait until the soil is warm and the risk of frost has passed.

Gradually acclimatise plants raised under cover before moving them outdoors. Water the root ball, then plant it without breaking the roots, at the same depth as in the pot. Adjust spacing to the variety and leave enough room for trailing stems. This calendar covers seedlings; direct sowing is covered by the sowing calendar.

Water at the base after planting, then adjust watering to the weather without soaking the soil. Mulch while keeping the stem base clear. Inspect young plants and identify signs of disease or pests before taking action.

Mark the base of each plant with a small stake beside it, without pushing through the root ball. Once large leaves and stems cover the soil, you can still find the right place to water. Plan the layout when planting: keep a path where you can walk without stepping on stems and allow for their future spread. If you intend to train a small-fruited variety upwards, install a sturdy support before the stems become long and fragile.

For storage, let pumpkins reach full maturity: the skin hardens and the stalk begins to dry. Timing depends on sowing, variety and climate. Harvest before frost rather than waiting for a fixed autumn date.

Cut with a clean, sharp tool, leaving a section of stalk attached to the fruit. Handle the squash without knocking it and do not carry it by the stalk. Damaged or insufficiently ripe fruits store less well and should be used promptly.

Store healthy, ripe fruits in a dry, ventilated, frost-free place at around 10–15 °C. Keep them from touching and check regularly. Storage life varies; remove any showing signs of rot.

After cutting, let fruits intended for storage dry and their skins harden for about a week to ten days in a bright place protected from bad weather. A ventilated greenhouse can be suitable, provided you watch for cold nights. This curing stage does not make an already frost-damaged or rotten fruit suitable for storage. Support heavy fruits underneath with both hands when moving them. Set aside those needing earlier use and pay particular attention to the stalk area during storage checks, as decay can begin there.